Day 17 & 18: The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (Montrose, Colorado)

We woke up in the San Juan National Forest and quickly packed up to get on the road for one of the main planned destinations of our trip--the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. 

We were on the road before 8 am with our sights set on getting to the park in time to get a good campsite before all the weekenders got to the park. The winding roads through the San Juan Mountains were both awe-inspiring and gut-wrenching (although the Black Canyon would prove to be a thousand times worse/better). 

This best surprise of the day was the town of Silverton, Colorado. We saw it from the top of a nearby mountain before we actually set foot in it, and we quickly decided to park the truck/Scamp in the shade, put the dogs in the trailer, and set out to explore the town that a popular train stop for tourists. We strolled through the shops and got some lunch at a BBQ shack that has been featured on the Food Network's Diners, Drive Ins, and Dives and were on our way to get one of the funnel cakes we smelled when we first started exploring the town when we were diverted by the sounds of a girl playing ragtime music on a piano in a place known as Grumpy's. We decided to grab a quick drink at the bar where the friendly bartender answered our questions about the establishment. The building was built in 1887 and the bar was original--shipped in three pieces from England in 1903. We felt like we had walked back in time as the music played and the conversation flowed, and I tried to imagine all of the people who have sat in that same spot over all the years. 

After finishing our drinks and then getting our funnel cake at the shop next door, we headed back to the Scamp to continue our journey to the Black Canyon. 

After a few hours on a rather winding road, we finally arrived at the park. We quickly set up our campsite and jumped back into the truck to explore the South Rim of the Canyon. 

Unlike the Grand Canyon which is made of sandstone and was formed via water and wind erosion, the Black Canyon is made of granite carved solely by the power of the Gunnison River. In all of human history, the Gunnison River--considered nearly unnavigable for white water rafting--has only carved 5 feet of the canyon. The rest was done before humans ever appeared on this planet.  The rocks at the bottom of the canyon are 2 billion years old (Precambrian). The canyon is 2700 feet deep. That is double the height of the Empire State Building! I suppose that is why I couldn't get my heart out of my throat at each overlook. What we especially like about this park is that it is very dog friendly. Leashed dogs are allowed on the overlooks--which is a rarity in most parks. 

After a few hours of breathtaking views, we decided to call it a night and headed back to our campsite to make dinner and relax. 

In the morning of our 18th day on the road, we got up and piled into the truck to drive around to the north rim of the canyon. It was a two hour drive to get there, but the views and seclusion were well worth it. We even got stuck in a Cattle Drive of 300 cows being guided to new pastures by real Cowboys. As the herd surrounded our truck all we could do was watch in amusement. 

Once we got to the north side, we explored the rim of the canyon for awhile, saw a few more dams, ate a picnic lunch, and headed back to our "home" to relax and make plans for the final leg of our trip.

I can't believe it has almost been three weeks on the road. We have met some amazing people and have seen some amazing sites. Seeing how much is out there in our world only makes me realize how much there is to see...I know we will never see it all, but it sure is fun trying. As of right now I have only four more states to see before I have seen them all--Oregon, Texas, Vermont, and Hawaii. Kevin has a few more than that to see, but we are certainly getting there! As tonight's neighbors--a group of ladies out for "Ladies' Camping Night"--just exclaimed when they saw our campsite--"Oh my gosh! They're doing it right!" We think so, too, ladies. We think so too. ;) 

Day 16: Natural Bridges National Monument (Utah) to San Juan National Forest (Colorado)

Today was a day filled with driving in an effort to venture closer to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison near Montrose, Colorado. 

So, we packed up camp and got on the freeway to head in that direction. Along the way, we realized that we were too close to the Four Corners, so we took a little detour and stopped to stand in five places all at once: Navajo Nation PLUS Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona. I didn't realize that this area features several booths filled with Native American crafts, tools, and art for sale. It's a good thing we only had a little cash on us, or I would have bought a lot more than turquoise earrings! After eating a fry bread taco and sno-cone from a food truck just outside of the monument, we got back into the truck to continue our journey. 

Eventually, we stopped in a park I would like to explore some more--Mesa Verde National Park. This park features the ancient cliff dwellings of the Pueblo villages. We only had time to explore one scenic loop of the park, but it was awe-inspiring and left me curious for more. Visitors can climb into and explore the dwellings! I'd like to do that on our next visit. We still had a lot of miles to go before we reached our planned stopping point for the night, so we decided to save the other loops for another time and kept on putting in the miles. 

I'm not gonna lie. Today felt like a long day in the car. Finally, though, after getting directions from a resident of the area we eventually pulled into a spot at North Canyon campground in the San Juan National Forest where we made dinner and went to bed early--exhausted from a long day on the road but knowing that with a little rest and fresh air we'd be ready to go again the next morning. 

Day 15: Capitol Reef National Park to Natural Bridges National Monument

Today was an action packed day! 

Kevin decided to sleep in the hammock, so I had the bed to myself. Well, sort of. To myself and two dogs. 

For once, I was happy to wake up early because we had a plan. Each day, the owners of a ranch down the road deliver a few trays of cinnamon rolls and fresh fruit pies to the Historic Gifford House. We found out the day before that they usually arrive around 8:15, and once they are gone they are gone. So...we walked with the dogs on short trail from our campsite to the house and arrived just as the delivery van was backing up to the house. Kevin went inside with the other campers who had gathered there and emerged with two cinnamon rolls and a still warm strawberry-rhubarb pie. 

We headed back to our site to enjoy our feast. We decided to save the cinnamon rolls for later and dug into the pie while it was still warm. I thought I loved Capitol Reef National Park before...the sweet breakfast treats after a stroll under cottonwood trees and along a stream sealed the deal. 

After breakfast, we reluctantly packed up and pulled out of the campsite. The drive out of the park offered even more beautiful views, and we were already making plans for our next visit before we even exited the park. 

On our way out of the park we stopped to check out the one room schoolhouse. Its last group of students graduated in 1941. 

Our first stop on our action packed day was at Goblin Valley State Park. Our timing was bad--we arrived at the midpoint of the day and it was over 100 degrees--but we took a few minutes to explore the valley named for the goblin-like structures created by wind and water erosion. This park was nice because dogs were allowed in the area and you are allowed to climb on and through the structures. If only it wasn't so hot! 

We checked out the campsite in the park before leaving. They were nice! And we laughed when we discovered what appears to be the worlds most challenging disc golf course by the campgrounds! It would be fun to explore the goblins in the evening. 

Once we worked up a bit of a sweat and the dogs were panting a bit, we all drank some water and turned the air on full blast in the truck and set out to revisit a spot from last year--Hite. We camped in Hite last year. It is the spot that sparked Kevin's dam obsession because Hite used to be a campground located on the banks of Lake Powell, but the drought and public overuse has completely drained the area. It was empty last year too, but this year the bathrooms were closed and it just felt so sad. Two abandoned boats sit unclaimed and the boat ramp leads down to dry dirt. We had originally thought we may stay at Hite for the night, but once we were there we decided to keep on going. 

About an hour away from Hite is Utah's first National Monument and an official "Dark Sky Zone": Natural Bridges National Monument. Known for its three natural bridges, this area has a small campsite, scenic loop, and hiking trails. We chose a site nestled back in some pinyon pine trees, juniper, and sage brush...oh...and cactus...and decided to beat the heat in the air conditioned truck by enjoying the scenic loop to see the bridges. Natural bridges differ from arches because bridges are at least partially formed by water--rivers, streams, etc--flowing under them while arches do not. In addition to checking out the arches, I hiked a short trail to see ancient Native American ruins from the year 1 AD. Year 1!!!!!! 

After driving the loop, we headed back "home" and discovered that our neighbor was also our neighbor from the night before! Kevin chatted with him for a bit while I read in the hammock and enjoyed the sounds of another camper playing the guitar. Once again I found myself closing my eyes and freeze framing the moment for a time when I need to feel calm and relaxed. 

Kevin made dinner so I could finish reading my book. I headed to bed early (again!); this fresh air makes me sleepy! And Kevin waited out by the campfire for the stars to emerge. This park is recognized as a "Dark Sky Zone" because of the lack of light pollution because of its remote location and because of measures the park has taken to eliminate light pollution from within the park. Even from inside the Scamp I could see the stars and the Milky Way up above. 

Our night at Natural Bridges was not a planned stop, but we sure are glad we decided to check it out! 

Day 14: Antelope Island to Capitol Reef National Park

The Centennial for the National Park Service is in 2016. To promote the celebration, all of the Visitor Centers have stickers and t-shirts with the slogan "Find Your Park." Well...today we did. 

After leaving Antelope Island, we stopped for a quick breakfast at a local coffee shop. While there, we planned our route to Capitol Reef National Park. 

We originally thought we would just drive through the park, but once we got there and saw the campgrounds and the location, we decided to stay for the night. We chose a site under the shade of a cottonwood tree, set up camp, and piled back into the truck for what would turn out to be one of our favorite stops of any of our road trips. 

Period. 

But first, we stopped in the Historic Gifford House on the park grounds to get a snack--a small bag of cherries from the orchard in the park, a bottle of orange soda, and some strawberry ice cream. The park preserves the settlement of Fruita with the Gifford House, a one room school house, and the orchards in addition to maintaining the roads and campsite at the park. The area got its name--Capitol Reef--because of the barrier created when a rift in the Earth's crust created a "water pocket fold" that proved to be a challenging obstacle for the first settlers in the area. 

Once we stocked up on some snacks we started our exploration of the park. The scenic loop was breathtaking, but the best part was the drive down the unpaved Capitol Canyon Gorge Trail and Great Wash Trail. We've been to some amazing parks in the past--including Arches and Canyonlands--but this park made you feel like you were a part of it...not just observing it. As the walls closed in the deeper we got into the canyons, we were thankful it was a clear day since warnings about flash flooding were posted at the start of each trail. At the end of the Canyon Trail we went on foot even deeper into the canyons and saw petroglyphs and the difficult passage that Mormon settlers took through this area. 

After our drive and hike in the park, we headed back to our campsite for dinner. When we returned we were amused by quite the welcoming party at our site. Six deer were grazing right in our site and the other campers quietly crept over to take pictures and watch them. 

That's another thing we liked about this camp. It was so quiet. We had campers on either side of us, but everyone was calm and quiet enough to allow the deer to graze. I think that being so close to such beauty in terms of life and the earth around us instilled a sense of peace and calm in all of us. Even the young couple across from us who were clearly in some lovers spat the night they camped bickered quietly and made up adorably. Oh the things you see in the campgrounds! It's always an adventure! 

I hesitate to write about this location because it was less crowded than the more famous parks yet so beautiful! I don't want it to get crowded too! 

It. Was. Spectacular. 

We. Will. Be. Back.